Art Reference

walrushit: Female Study Sketchdump by *EleonoraBertolucci

Sun, 19 May 2013 03:46:39 -0400

Female Study Sketchdump by *EleonoraBertolucci

Meh Tumblr Art Refs Blog: Probably Unreliable Guides: speed lines

Sun, 19 May 2013 03:02:04 -0400

Meh Tumblr Art Refs Blog: Probably Unreliable Guides: speed lines:

tay-bee asked you:

(lets see if i can word this right haha) for the smaller speedlines that show fast movement of a certain limb/weapon/etc (not background speedlines) do you have any tips on knowing where to place them or ways to draw them to show the movement?

I’ll…

Meh Tumblr Art Refs Blog: Blog Navigation!

Thu, 16 May 2013 20:10:37 -0400

Meh Tumblr Art Refs Blog: Blog Navigation!:

art-and-sterf:

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owlsinparis: referencesforartists: brenanf999: dontwantyourmon...

Sun, 12 May 2013 13:52:17 -0400

owlsinparis:

referencesforartists:

brenanf999:

dontwantyourmoneysir:

anndruyan:

This is a summary of college only using two pictures; expensive as hell.

That’s my Sociology “book”. In fact what it is is a piece of paper with codes written on it to allow me to access an electronic version of a book. I was told by my professor that I could not buy any other paperback version, or use another code, so I was left with no option other than buying a piece of paper for over $200. Best part about all this is my professor wrote the books; there’s something hilariously sadistic about that. So I pretty much doled out $200 for a current edition of an online textbook that is no different than an older, paperback edition of the same book for $5; yeah, I checked. My mistake for listening to my professor.

This is why we download.

Alternatives to buying overpriced textbooks

Textbooknova

Reddit

Bookboon

Textbookrevolution

GaTech Math Textbooks

Ebookee

Freebookspot

Free-ebooks

Getfreeebooks
BookFinder
Oerconsortium

Project Gutenberg

Spreading this shit like nutella because goddamn textbooks are so expensive.

not necessarily art related but as someone who couldn’t afford their textbooks this semester this is a godsend

to all my fellow struggling students out there.

sketchypanda: kiriiv: how the fuck do legs work i don’t  i have a few feet ones too

Sun, 12 May 2013 00:40:46 -0400

sketchypanda:

kiriiv:

how the fuck do legs work i don’t 

i have a few feet ones too

hugu: kordova: tvface: ok so i really like multiple arms and...

Fri, 10 May 2013 01:21:16 -0400

hugu:

kordova:

tvface:

ok so i really like multiple arms
and people in suits
and dainty whimsical hands

and i opened the animator’s survival kit on a whim today and this was one of the pages and i guhajghhghhehehgggg

whoa this is cool

everyone should own this book

paintbucketresources: abigcorpseparty: knightofstardust: Rubb...

Mon, 06 May 2013 00:31:03 -0400

paintbucketresources:

abigcorpseparty:

knightofstardust:

Rubberized Armor for Joan of Arc

This is a suit of armor made entirely out of cardboard and bicycle tubes, styled after the style of armor that Joan of Arc would have worn.

Materials:

cardboard
used bicycle tubes (free at any bike shop)
hot glue/gun
screws of varying lengths
acorn cap fittings
scissors

The entire base is constructed from cardboard that is cut and hot-glued into shape. Each individual piece was then covered in multiple coats of brown paper dipped in wallpaper paste, creating a thin, lightweight but very sturdy form of paper mache.

Every piece was then gesso-ed to remove any corrugation lines, then spray painted matte black.

After the individual pieces were primed I applied the bicycle tubes in varying combinations to create varying effects, such as weaving, stretching, piping, and other cuttings and manipulations. The tubes were adhered to the frame using rubber cement.

Finally, each piece was connected together using an awl, screws and acorn cap fittings to create a more intense armored feel.

This armor took about fifty hours of intense work to execute.

This is so cool.

!!!!

Well this is beastly awesome. Wonder if the bike shops around here have free tubes…

carryalaser: WATERCOLOUR CHEAT CODES I made really quick...

Sun, 05 May 2013 06:15:11 -0400

carryalaser:

WATERCOLOUR CHEAT CODES

I made really quick tutorials full of swatches to send my mom who wants to take up watercolour painting for a hobby. I’ll share them here as I find time to type what I wrote her.

—-

The first two pictures illustrate discoveries in mixing skin-tones. I try to find paints that make it faster/easier to mix skin colours - even if you’re adept at making these tones out of other colours, the right combo of purple and yellow can cut out a lot of time and money. The one I have most success with is “violet gray”, then “permanent magenta” for darker and wider ranges, and “purple lake” when I was cheap and it was on sale.

Mix these (sparingly) with raw sienna. The darker the purple the less you’ll need to add to your yellow (yellow ochre works as well). Ultimately, watercolour is tricky to mix so if you’re not confident right away make sure to paint swatches before putting a loaded brush to paper, otherwise be ready to mix with water on the paper.

For a lighter, paler, redder skin tone, raw sienna + brown madder is what I prefer, although as you can see in the first image (about half-way down the page on the left), “cadmium yellow pale hue” and “cadmium red deep hue” work just as well, and might be cheaper on you. With that combo, however, it’s easier to get stuck mixing a ton of orange.

Back to permanent magenta, it’s great with browns to get darker tones, not just for darker skin but for shading. I keep three browns on my “skin” palette (last pic), “burnt umber”, “burnt sienna”, and “vandyke brown”. Mix it with some skin-tone, even just a little, to keep it from looking straight-out-of-the-tube.

So mix your skin tones, make a few test swatches to figure out how much water you need (every brush behaves differently), and lay down some washes.

In the middle of the first piece of paper is a gradation in a skin tone (violet gray + raw sienna) from really warm (“brown madder”) to really cool (“turquoise”). This was done wet in wet, to show what kinds of tones you get from adding warm and cool colours.

To the left on the bottom are a couple light washes of colours painted over a skin tone (same ol’ raw sienna + violet gray) to show how different colours look on this mix when applied dry on dry. Blue (I used turquoise again) is great for some shadows, implied stubble, and veins close to the skin, reds and most browns for warmer shading, yellow for jaundice or boogers… you get it.

On the bottom right is an example of really warm vs. really cool shading on the same skin tone mix (just guess). The initial skin tone wash is a bit warm for the cool side, but the contrast makes the shadows really evident. Different colours in shading will have different effects that way. The only surprise here is the use of dark blue “indigo” which is great for coming close to black when mixed with other colours.

On the second page are two more noses, different skin tones, and just three extra passes with skin tone washes - although difficult to tell because I was lazy and didn’t wait long enough for them to dry after the 2nd pass. The extra passes aren’t particularly warm or cold leaning, but simply draw off of the initial tone I placed.

IMPORTANT: These little quick studies serve to be as economical as possible, using few colours but still not looking just like an awkward mix of red and yellow or brown and yellow. For a more detailed or accurate representation of skin tones, a ton more colours might be added - for instance the darker skin tone on the right would have more pinks, and of course different parts of the body appear to be tinted differently. Also never forget no matter what colour or how dark skin is, skin is shiny. Be mindful of even diffused light. At the same time - perfect representation of skin is hardly necessary. More expressive colour treatment rules.

But ultimately - colour in skin - who cares! Just play around with colours you like, build a base that’s easy for you to mix quickly for wet on wet or however you prefer to work. Play with colours on different planes or surfaces of the body, with light, and take everything I say as a tips - not rules - ‘cause watercolour is really unpredictable and that is often the best part.

Another note: I use pencil tins for palettes, it keeps things portable, easy to mix, minimal paint waste, and I can rearrange paints easily to make mixing easier. I usually have three but you could get away with one or two. If you try it out, keep the paints and empty space clean with jut a bit of water and the wipe of a cloth/kleenex.

—-

The third picture shows a really quick, easy, natural black mix I make. It’s simply “Hooker’s Green, Dark” and “Dioxazine Violet” at almost equal quantities. You can mix it with a blue or red or yellow for a warmer or cooler black, depending on which you need. I included some gradation and overlapping swatches. Just keep in mind black can be very powerful in watercolour, or any opaque application of the paint, so use it sparingly and with a plan in mind.

—-

Despite my shitty watercolour sketches up here, I spent a huge amount of being a child working at a cooperative gallery with some contemporary and purist watercolour painters alike so I picked up a lot. If anyone wants me to be more specific about something, or maybe produce a more specific guide or sketch for a problem you have, let me know and I can try to help out.

These were things my mum asked for and that I produced with her knowledge of the medium in mind, so if it really did interest you but you’re stuck on something, or found something I said vague and confusing, let me know.

EDIT: A tutorial I made to talk about paper. It’s important stuff. [link]

battasenpai: some nice programs to draw mtPaint: free source tool designed to make pixel art. for...

Sun, 05 May 2013 00:31:02 -0400

battasenpai:

some nice programs to draw

mtPaint: free source tool designed to make pixel art. for Linux or Windows.

character maker: it’s to make charsets for rpgmaker but you can use it for whatever you want. it’s in both english and spanish.

scribblertoo: really nice website to draw with.

sekka: free source tool to draw things like these:

mediumaevum: I hope this will help with your reenactments and...

Sat, 04 May 2013 21:15:55 -0400

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

mediumaevum:

I hope this will help with your reenactments and fanart. :)

Anglo-Saxon (600 – 1154): Simple Veils, Head-tires, Combs, and Pin

Norman (1066-1154): Couvre-chef, hair uncovered, and extreme length

Plantagenet (1154-1399): Wimple, Barbette, Fillet and Crespine

Plantagenet (14th century): Horizontal Braiding, Gorget

Plantagenet Crespine ( 1364-Late 14th century)

Lancaster (1430-1460): Heart-shaped and Turban Headdresses

York (1460-1485): Butterfly and Hennin

More info and styles at the source.

atzomatic: calamityjon: gurroo: Mike Mignola tutorial,...

Sat, 04 May 2013 21:04:47 -0400

atzomatic:

calamityjon:

gurroo:

Mike Mignola tutorial, c.1997. I remember liking this so much I pasted the pages straight into my sketchbook

I can think of five or six professional cartoonists whose entire portfolio was cribbed from this one tutorial.

Beautiful stuff, tho, the bit on texture alone is invaluable.

Mike Mignola breaks it down!

wardencarverhawke: Nose Tutorial Resource by *ConceptCookie

Sat, 04 May 2013 05:52:47 -0400

wardencarverhawke:

Nose Tutorial Resource by *ConceptCookie

art-and-sterf: getting punched in the face by ~severusgraves

Sat, 04 May 2013 05:29:39 -0400

art-and-sterf:

getting punched in the face by ~severusgraves

foervraengd: Dacrophelia - Mastertouch by ~Niansa I think it’s...

Sat, 04 May 2013 05:20:40 -0400

foervraengd:

Dacrophelia - Mastertouch by ~Niansa

I think it’s hard to find good photography of true emotions such as sadness and crying. This beautiful set of photos shows the progress of how the face change when crying. The photographer did not fake this; these are real tears and real emotions put into this artwork.

criminallyincompetent: Cᴏʀʀᴏᴅᴇ A quick little brush I made to...

Sat, 04 May 2013 05:04:35 -0400

criminallyincompetent:

Cᴏʀʀᴏᴅᴇ

A quick little brush I made to create some abrasive lines. The texture used for this was downloaded from cgtextures. Use this brush as you wish!

You can get it here.

helpfulharrie: Just some tips from me!

Sat, 04 May 2013 04:42:51 -0400

helpfulharrie:

Just some tips from me!

artkind: !!!EDIT!!! oopsies i forgot to include the advanced...

Sat, 04 May 2013 03:58:02 -0400

artkind:

!!!EDIT!!! oopsies i forgot to include the advanced settings for the crayon tool„, , oops u-u

(im reposting this from my main!) (click for full.)

ANYWAYS SO YEAH THOSE ARE THE BRUSHES I USUALLY USE?? ill type up a little bit about each (also not shown here is the binary tool which i use for pixelling!! its pretty„, basic though i dont really have any special settings for it or anything + the blur tool which ive edited and i meaN if anyone wants it later i can like. make something omg)

Pencil - I use this for anything with outlines that dont look weighed??? I almost always use it at size 4 but sometimes ill use it at size 2!! (for any scribbly drawings i do haha)

Brush #1 - this is.…. . such an old brush omg its taken me long to get it like that buT its really nice to use for soft shading?? not so much blending stuff though ahh unless you like the hard difference between two colours which is usually what im going for? USUALLY before using this tool ill use the fancy outline one to lay flat colours in so i can get everything at 100% opacity

Brush #2 - ThIS… is sort of similar to the other brush but as you can clearly see it has a different brush shape ff!! its also like. a bit better for blending although i dont usually use it for blending?? I dont use it a whole lot but i used it in the most recent drawings ive made (specifically the bec noir drawing that i did with the scar on the wrong side!!) but its really cool to use if you need like a simple gradient background to look a bit cooler. its neat.

Fancy Outline - USED„, PROBABLY THE MOST OF ALL THESE its what i use to line, colour, cel shade, doodle, etc. with!! Its really similar to the brush that squeedgemonster uses except it is a bit different because i have the edge hardness turned to zero and i have the Hard <-> Soft set at either 32 or lower!!!! But seriously while it does make really nice lineart it is REALLY REALLY good for colouring in small spaces since you can draw fairly thin lines in and also draw thick ones too :3 its cool. i really love this brush ok!!!! its like one of my favourites ive ever used.

Crayon - I„ RECENTLY CHANGED THIS ONE A TAD but not by much??? I sometimes use it for blending or crayon-like outlines!! i dont use it a whole lot either though but i still like it. Also while i do have blend on for mine you can just set it to zero if you dont want it to blend?? it blends pretty nicely though i think!

THATS„, BASICALLY IT sorry this was a really long response omg!! ALSO the symbols below each brush setting show what kind of brush i made so i could use them?? so make sure if you want to use any of these that the brush you are creating has the same symbol uwu (the crayon and brush ones are the same type of brush! i just named them differently ff)

uxrave: Making shapes in CSS – A bunch of resources: The shapes...

Wed, 01 May 2013 00:03:43 -0400

uxrave:

Making shapes in CSS – A bunch of resources:

The shapes of CSS by Chris Coyier

Shapes with CSS – live code examples on Codepen.io

Neo CSS

How to create different shapes in CSS

Perspective Tool

Sat, 20 Apr 2013 07:22:36 -0400

Perspective Tool:

kyaptan:

really cool really useful!!!

Photo

Fri, 19 Apr 2013 19:53:54 -0400